Mode. Moscow Fashion Week: from Siberian Sounds to Global Trends

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The curtains fell on Moscow Fashion Week (MFW) amid a grand finale showcasing the talent of prominent Russian fashion schools, underscored by a live performance from the Russian ethnic group OTYKEN.

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This ensemble employs the rich musical heritage and instruments of northern and Siberian indigenous peoples. The extravagant closing event was the high point of this eight-day fashion spectacle across Europe's largest city where more than 200 designers, both local and international, gathered. In March, MFW emerged as a hotspot of culture and trends, achieving recognition as a principal launchpad for emerging fashion brands. As it stands, Russia's market for native fashion brands is surging at an annual growth rate of 15% and unlocking new windows of opportunity for international newcomers.

COLLABORATIONS BEYOND BORDERS

Designers from 10 countries showcased their creativity on the Moscow Fashion Week runways: China, India, South Africa, Ethiopia, Costa Rica, Brazil, Egypt, Tunisia, Indonesia and Turkey.
Each harnessed local cultural influences, from the indigo palette and patterns inspired by 16th-century ceramic tiles in Anissa Aida's Tunisian collection to the animal prints, ethical tiles and intricate cuts of Egyptian brand Alia Abaza. DOPE store, a South African brand, fused modern trends with local heritage. Ivonne Garita, promoting sustainable slow fashion, proudly labeled her designs "Made in Costa Rica". The new collection from Chinese brand ??ZHIHUA channeled Eastern artistic values. Turkish brand Emre Erdemoglu wowed with a new men's collection drawing on authentic Turkish clothing styles, while Ethiopian designer Mastewal Alemu showcased a collection of sustainable evening gowns crafted from natural materials. Inspiration from the glimmer of ice crystals shaped the collection of Indian brand Geisha Designs, with asymmetric silhouettes paying tribute to traditional saris. Waseem Khadra (Egypt), Boys of Soweto (South Africa), and the NBC brand (India) also presented their collections.

Local Russian brands borrowed from global cultures as well. Such as LUTANI drew inspiration from South African landscapes, while SHAKLEIN mixed traditional Russian suit cuts with Eastern influences. ZOT?ME took inspiration from Bauhaus principles and the architecture of Le Corbusier, and Russian designer Svetlana Badanina channeled the beauty of India and Thailand in her collection. The XakaMa brand amalgamated oriental motifs and asymmetry, and TimShee embraced Japanese minimalism. Continuing the theme of culture-inspired fashion, the new ALENA MUSAEVA collection reimagined traditional Russian folklore elements, and the SHATU 1997 brand weaved in Russian ballet history.


STARS IN THE FRONT ROW, AND ON THE RUNWAY

Beyond and on the runway, MFW also attracted global celebrities. Italian cinema legend Ornella Muti watched as her daughter actress and singer Naike Rivelli turned model for the MaisonESVE show. Chinese actress Lily Ji, famed for Pacific Rim: Uprising and Skiptrace, extolled Russian brands BEENA, JULIA DALAKIAN, EFREMOV, and GAPANOVICH, and graced the red carpet draped in traditional Hanfu of the Song and Qing Dynasties. Turkish star Gizem Karaca, known for her roles in Magnificent Century and Sapphire, lavished praise on the shows of Turkish and Russian designers like Emre Erdemoglu, BEENA, VASSA&Co, EFREMOV and MEASURE. Not to be outdone, popular Russian brands such as Loom by Rodina, Alena Akhmadullina, and MASTERPEACE had special presentations, the last one has garnered a notable mention from Gizem Karaca. Moscow Fashion Week also attracted industry specialists, journalists, and buyers from over 20 countries, and live broadcasts hit 5 million views across 30 nations.


NEW ERA FOR TIMELINESS

In a remarkable feat of precision and planning, Moscow Fashion Week has set a new benchmark for punctuality in the global fashion circuit. This season, an impressive tally of 123 runway shows were flawlessly executed from March 1st to 8th, at the historical Central Exhibition Hall ‘Manege’ venue—steps away from the iconic Kremlin and Red Square—and the country's premier exhibition RUSSIA EXPO at VDNH, the architectural landmark of Russia’s capital.

Shows were mounted at a rapid-fire pace, with a new spectacle unveiled every 15 minutes in the agenda. Admirably, each show commenced at its scheduled minute, to fully packed venues—a testament to the organization's reputation for timely starts, something that regular attendees have come to expect and respect. This stringent adherence to the schedule proved to be crucial for the seamless delivery of live broadcasts. The digital reach of the fashion week was unprecedented, with over 5 million views tuning in from over 30 countries around the world.


VIVID COLORS OF SPRING

From the fantastical to the classical, Russian designers enthralled attendees with a vivid palette of designs. The brand by /DAS/ delved into the enchanted realm of Slavic fairy tales, bringing fictional and mythical characters to life through their latest offering. Meanwhile, Ermi skillfully wove together the old and the new, merging cutting-edge materials with traditional fabrics such as nettle, linen, and wild silk to stunning effect.

Vintage charm was in full bloom with Gerda Irène’s collection, where classic imagery was enriched with intricate floral patterns and delicate beading. Kolchuga drew inspiration from the enigmatic allure of hidden gardens and the profound depths of the human psyche, while fashion experts drew parallels between the artistic mastery of SERGEY SYSOEV and the renowned Dries Van Noten at the conclusion of his show.

In a blend of nature and technology, designer Abzaeva introduced a print inspired by the haunting sound of the wind over Lake Baikal, bringing an innovative auditory dimension to visual aesthetics. BITTE_RUHE transported the audience through a spectrum of trends, from the ethereal beauty of mermaids to the solemn grandeur of medieval times. BÜRO UNIQUE transformed the runway into a vibrant floral spectacle, centering its collection around a blossoming garden motif.

VASSA&Co explored the intricate mathematics of fractal geometry in space, translating complex theories into wearable art. Timeless elegance was reinterpreted with a modern twist in the shows by Surovaya and KOSS, showcasing a contemporary take on classic silhouettes. The punk, gothic, and futuristic elements combined by the IMK brand culminated in a strikingly bold statement, complemented by LI LAB’s collection, which embraced gothic aesthetics highlighted by a sense of daring and liberation.

Yana Besfamilnaya's collection drew upon the fishing profession for inspiration, resulting in a theme both unique and deeply connected to the natural world. Adding a dynamic component to the proceedings, DARYA KIPRIYANOVA incorporated choreographed performances into her show, adding movement and drama to the presentation of her designs.

The runways of Moscow Fashion Week were a riot of colors and cultures. Amid the vibrancy, the event didn't shy away from showcasing 'modest fashion' through the collections of Indonesian IRMASARI JOEDAWINATA and Russian labels ZUHAT and MEASURE.

INCLUSIVITY STEALS THE SHOW IN MOSCOW

The shows displayed remarkable diversity. An inclusive variety of models, including women with Down syndrome (KUZINA fashion brand) and prosthetic limbs (ANMOR fashion brand), strutted the catwalk. The collections also showcased unique ideas, including honoring women who have made contributions to science in the Dear Passenger N. collection.
Sustainability was a major narrative running through many collections, including ZA_ZA, SHCHUR, Maison Kaleidoscope, BEENA, VESTIAIRE, PASESHNIC and Indian brand NBC. These shows offered confirmation of Moscow Fashion Week's commitment to promoting sustainable fashion.
 

For more information, visit moscowfashion.ru.
 

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